Solo Pilgrimage Guide

Medjugorje
& the Adriatic

London or Manchester → Split → Bosnia and Herzegovina — 7 days, May or June

7 nights Rental car Solo traveller Wed → Tue
Getting there

Flights

Both London Luton and Manchester fly EasyJet direct to Split. The arrival times are almost identical so choose whichever airport is easier or cheaper to reach from home.

London Luton EasyJet
OUT Luton → Split 16:20 → 19:55
RETURN Split → Luton 20:30 → 22:15
Manchester EasyJet
OUT Manchester → Split 16:15 → 20:05
RETURN Split → Manchester 20:45 → 22:35
Which to choose? No meaningful difference for this trip — both land around 20:00 and both return flights depart around 20:30. Pick the cheaper option or the airport closer to you. Book the return car drop-off for Split Airport on Tuesday.
May 25th — June 25th: June 25th is the anniversary of the Medjugorje apparitions — one of the largest pilgrimage days of the year. If your trip overlaps with it, expect large crowds and book accommodation well in advance.
Getting around

Renting a car

A rental car is essential for this itinerary. You'll drive Split → Medjugorje, do day trips to Mostar and Hvar or Dubrovnik, and return to Split for your flight. Pick up at Split Airport on Wednesday, drop off Tuesday evening.

Recommended rental companies

Rentalcars.com compare
Aggregator — best for comparing all companies at once. Start here.
AutoEurope recommended
Reliable broker, good prices in Croatia, clear cross-border policies.
Hertz / Avis / Budget
All have desks at Split Airport. Reliable but often pricier than brokers.
Dollar / Thrifty / Sixt
Available at Split Airport. Cheaper — read reviews and T&Cs carefully.
Local Croatian companies
Oryx, Mack, Budget Dalmatia — sometimes cheapest but confirm Bosnia cover before booking.

The Bosnia border — critical

Medjugorje is in Bosnia and Herzegovina, not Croatia. You will cross an international border. Most rental companies allow this but you must declare it at booking — if you don't, your insurance is void if anything happens on the Bosnian side. Some companies charge a small cross-border fee (€10–30). Get written confirmation in your booking documents.

What to book

Car size
A small car (Volkswagen Polo, Opel Corsa, Fiat 500) is perfect. You're solo with one bag. Easier to park in Split old town and Mostar.
Duration
Pick up Wednesday evening at Split Airport. Drop off Tuesday evening, same location. ~6 days. Budget €80–150 total for a small car.
Insurance
Take the full Collision Damage Waiver (CDW) with zero excess if you can afford it — peace of mind for border crossings and narrow Dalmatian streets.
Fuel policy
Book full-to-full, never "full-to-empty" (a common upsell scam). Return the car with a full tank and keep the receipt.

Driving tips

  • Drive on the right (same side as continental Europe)
  • Croatian roads are excellent — the A1 motorway from Split south is toll-based (keep coins/card handy)
  • The coastal road (D8 Jadran) is stunning but slow and narrow in parts — budget extra time
  • Speed cameras are common on Croatian motorways — respect the limits
  • Bosnia roads are good on the main Split–Medjugorje route (E73/M17) — no issues
  • Parking in Split old town: use the Sukoišan or Gripe garages rather than street parking
  • In Medjugorje: free street parking near the church — the village is designed for pilgrims
  • Vignette / toll: Croatia uses cash or card at toll booths — no windscreen sticker needed
Day by day

Loose itinerary

Times are suggestions, not a schedule. The only fixed anchor on pilgrimage days is the evening programme (6–7pm at St James). Everything else is flexible — if a moment of prayer holds you, let it.

Sightseeing Pilgrimage Optional Travel
For the soul

Pilgrimage sites

Everything in Medjugorje is walkable from the village centre. Wear sturdy shoes — the hillsides are rocky limestone.

✝
Apparition Hill (Podbrdo)
~20 min easy-to-moderate climb
Where the apparitions began in 1981. A rocky path leads to a white statue of Our Lady at the site of the first apparition. Bronze reliefs of the Mysteries of the Rosary line the path — pray them on the way up. Go early morning for cooler air and quiet. Remove shoes at the base if you wish (traditional but not required). Sit at the top for as long as you need — there is no rush.
✝
Cross Mountain (Križevac)
~45 min harder climb, limestone rocks
A more demanding climb than Apparition Hill but deeply moving. Fourteen large bronze Stations of the Cross line the path. Go at sunrise — start in darkness (bring a small torch), pray the Stations, and watch dawn break from the concrete cross at the summit. The cross has been there since 1934. The view over the Herzegovina valley at first light is unforgettable. Wear proper shoes — the rocks are sharp.
✝
St James Church (Crkva sv. Jakova)
The spiritual heart of Medjugorje
The parish church around which the whole pilgrimage revolves. Evening programme every day: Croatian Rosary at ~6pm (broadcast on speakers outside for the overflow crowd), international Mass at 7pm, Adoration of the Blessed Sacrament and the blessing of the sick after Mass. Arrive 30–45 minutes early — the church fills completely. Sunday Mass is particularly special, often held outdoors on the large terrace behind the church.
✝
Confession gardens
Behind St James Church
Arguably one of the most remarkable Confession setups in the Catholic world — dozens of outdoor confessionals, priests from all over the world available most of the afternoon, every day. Identify an English-speaking priest (there are always several) by checking the small language flags. No appointment needed. Arrive and wait your turn. This is not to be missed on a Catholic pilgrimage.
✝
Perpetual Adoration Chapel
Open 24 hours
A small, quiet chapel for private prayer before the Blessed Sacrament at any hour of the day or night. Perfect for an early morning visit before the hills, or a late night moment of quiet. Always a few pilgrims present in silence.
✝
The Blue Cross
Foot of Apparition Hill
A small cross near the base of Apparition Hill where visionaries and prayer groups sometimes gather, especially on Sunday afternoons. Worth visiting — the atmosphere around it is quietly intense. Check local noticeboards or ask at your guesthouse about any scheduled gatherings.
The visionaries: Several of the original six still live in or around Medjugorje. Some speak at prayer groups or public gatherings. Check the parish notice board at St James or ask at your guesthouse — their schedules are posted locally.

The daily rhythm

Morning — climb Apparition Hill or Cross Mountain, private prayer, Adoration Chapel
Afternoon — Confession, rest, day trips, bookshops
6:00pm — Croatian Rosary at St James (go early for a seat)
7:00pm — International Mass (multilingual)
After Mass — Adoration of the Blessed Sacrament + blessing of the sick
Beyond the village

Sightseeing

Within an easy drive of Medjugorje you have some of the Balkans' most extraordinary places. These are the highlights worth building your non-pilgrimage days around.

Split — Diocletian's Palace must
Your base on Wednesday arrival and Tuesday departure
A 4th-century Roman emperor's retirement palace that an entire medieval city grew inside of — and then a modern Croatian city grew around. The warren of alleyways, baroque squares, the Cathedral of Saint Domnius (built inside the emperor's mausoleum), and the underground Podrum halls are all extraordinary. The Peristyle square is the centre — have a coffee there in the morning before the crowds arrive. Walk the waterfront Riva promenade at sunset. Split is one of the best cities on the Adriatic and deserves a full evening and morning minimum.
peka (slow-roasted lamb or octopus), pasticada (braised beef), fresh Adriatic fish, blitva (Swiss chard with garlic)
Mostar — Stari Most must
45 min drive from Medjugorje
One of the most beautiful and moving small cities in Europe. The 16th-century Ottoman stone bridge (Stari Most) was destroyed in the 1993 Bosnian War and painstakingly rebuilt — it carries that history with it. Walk both banks of the Neretva river, explore the Kujundžiluk bazaar (goldsmiths, copperware, textiles), climb the Koski Mehmed Pasha Mosque minaret for views over the bridge, and watch the bridge divers if you're lucky. Go twice — Saturday afternoon for a taste, Monday for the full version. The old town after dark is one of the Balkans' great evening experiences.
ćevapi with flatbread and raw onion (the local staple), burek (flaky pastry with meat or cheese), fresh trout from the river
Hvar — island town
1 hr ferry from Split + 45 min drive
One of the most beautiful of the Dalmatian islands — Venetian architecture, lavender fields, a harbour that feels almost too perfect. Best visited in May or early June before the peak summer party crowds arrive. Take the early Jadrolinija ferry from Split Harbour (not Split Airport — the ferry terminal is in the city centre). Walk up to the Spanish Fortress (Fortica) above the town for views over the Pakleni islands. Hvar town in the morning is genuinely lovely. Ferry back by early afternoon and drive to Medjugorje.
fresh grilled fish, prsut (Dalmatian cured ham), local rosé wine (vis island wines are excellent)
Dubrovnik — city walls optional must
3.5 hrs south of Split, 2.5 hrs from Medjugorje
One of the world's great walled cities — dramatic, beautiful, and yes, very touristy. The walk along the city walls (2km, ~1.5 hrs) gives extraordinary views over the old town and Adriatic. Best done in the morning before the cruise ship crowds arrive. Only worth the drive if you haven't been before and are choosing Dubrovnik over Hvar on Thursday. The drive along the Dalmatian coast road (D8) is spectacular in itself — pull over and enjoy it.
fresh oysters from the Pelješac peninsula (en route), black risotto with squid ink
Herzegovina wine country
Around Medjugorje and Mostar
The Neretva valley around Medjugorje produces Žilavka (white) and Blatina (red) — grapes found almost nowhere else in the world. Several family wineries between Medjugorje and Mostar welcome visitors for tastings, often with no booking needed. Ask at your guesthouse for the nearest one. A short detour on any driving day — worth it for the extraordinary landscape alone (vines in a rocky valley ringed by karst hills).
What to avoid: Medjugorje's surrounding village has some overpriced religious souvenir shops aimed at tourists. Skip the chain-style "pilgrim gift shops" at the entrance to town — the smaller family-run ones near the church are more authentic and better priced.
Eat & drink

Food & drink

You'll eat in Croatia (Dalmatian coast) and Bosnia (Medjugorje, Mostar). Two distinct food cultures, both excellent, neither expensive.

Croatian Dalmatian coast

Croatia · Must try
Peka
Slow-cooked lamb or octopus under a bell-shaped lid buried in embers. The signature dish of Dalmatia. Must be ordered in advance — ask at dinner the night before.
Croatia · Comfort food
Pasticada
Slow-braised beef in a sweet-sour wine sauce, served with gnocchi. The Dalmatian Sunday dish — heavy, rich, wonderful.
Croatia · Simple & perfect
Grilled fish
Sea bass (brancin) or sea bream (orada) grilled with olive oil, garlic and lemon. Served with blitva — Swiss chard with potatoes.
Croatia · Snack
Prsut
Dalmatian air-dried ham, similar to prosciutto but smokier. Served with local hard cheese and olives. The standard starter everywhere.

Bosnian (Medjugorje & Mostar)

Bosnia · Essential
Ćevapi
Small grilled minced meat sausages in a fluffy flatbread (somun) with raw onion and kajmak (creamy dairy). The national dish. Order a "porcija" — about 10 pieces.
Bosnia · Breakfast or snack
Burek
Flaky filo pastry spiral filled with minced meat, cheese, or spinach. Eaten for breakfast with yoghurt. Get it fresh from a bakery.
Bosnia · Mostar
River trout
Fresh trout from the Neretva river, simply grilled. Several restaurants in Mostar old town serve it. Exceptional quality.
Bosnia · Coffee culture
Bosanska kafa
Bosnian coffee — Turkish-style, served in a džezva (small copper pot) with a sugar cube and water. Sit, sip slowly, watch the world pass.

Drink

Wine
Dalmatian Plavac Mali (red, bold) and Posip (white, crisp). Herzegovina Žilavka (white) and Blatina (red) — local and worth seeking out. A glass of local wine with dinner costs €3–5.
Rakija
Local fruit brandy — grape, plum, herb. Offered as a welcome drink at many guesthouses. Sip slowly.
Tap water
Safe to drink in both Croatia and Bosnia. No need to buy bottled water constantly.
Cost
A full dinner with wine in Croatia: €15–25. In Bosnia (Medjugorje, Mostar): €8–15. Much cheaper than western Europe.
Need to know

Practical information

Currency — Croatia
Euro (€)
Croatia joined the Eurozone in 2023. Cards widely accepted everywhere.
Currency — Bosnia
Convertible Mark (BAM)
Fixed to Euro (1€ = ~1.96 BAM). In Medjugorje, Euros are widely accepted. In Mostar old town, use BAM for smaller shops — better value and expected. Get BAM from an ATM in Mostar.
Passport
Required at border
Croatia is EU / Schengen. Bosnia is not — you cross an international border. UK passport holders: no visa needed, simple passport check. Have it accessible in the car.
Phone / SIM
UK roaming applies in Croatia
Most UK networks cover Croatia under their roaming allowance. Bosnia is NOT covered — you'll be on a local Bosnian signal and may be charged. Check with your provider or buy a cheap Bosnian SIM in Medjugorje (€5–10). Download offline Google Maps for both countries before you fly.
Weather — May/June
Warm and sunny
May: 22–26°C, ideal for hill climbs. June: 26–32°C, warm but not brutal. Carry water for any outdoor activity. Sun cream essential on the hills.
Dress code — church
Shoulders and knees covered
Required inside St James Church. A light scarf or cardigan is enough. Shorts are fine outside. Bring something to wear over your arms for evening Mass.
Electricity
Type C / E plugs (2 round pins)
230V, same as mainland Europe. UK travellers need a European adapter. A universal travel adapter covers both countries.
Language
Croatian / Bosnian
English is widely spoken in tourist areas, Split, and Medjugorje (which is used to pilgrims from everywhere). In rural Bosnia or smaller Mostar restaurants, a phrase or two of local is appreciated — "hvala" (thank you) goes a long way.
Health
EHIC / GHIC
Your UK Global Health Insurance Card (GHIC) covers emergency treatment in Croatia (EU). It does NOT cover Bosnia — get travel insurance that covers Bosnia specifically. Easy to find, rarely costs extra.
Medjugorje — where to sleep
Family guesthouses (sobe)
Search "sobe Medjugorje" or use Booking.com. Family-run rooms are €20–40/night, include breakfast, and are the most authentic stay. Book ahead for May (Month of Mary is busy) and well ahead for June 25th weekend.
Mostar — where to sleep
Old town boutique options
Several small guesthouses right in the old town — sleeping here Monday night is strongly recommended. Prices very affordable (€25–50). The old town after the day visitors leave is magical.
Emergency numbers
112 (both countries)
Police: 192 (Croatia) / 122 (Bosnia). Ambulance: 194 (Croatia) / 124 (Bosnia). Roadside assistance Croatia: HAK 1987. Download your insurance company's emergency number before you go.
Stay savvy

Tips, scams & what to avoid

Car rental scams — know these before you pick up

Pre-existing damage not noted
Walk around the entire car before accepting it. Take dated photos or video of every panel, bumper, wheel, and the roof before you drive off. Email them to yourself immediately. This is your most important protection.
Fuel-to-empty upsell
The agent may offer to sell you a full tank at a "discounted" price, letting you return empty. It's almost always poor value. Decline — book full-to-full and return with a full tank. Keep the petrol receipt.
Extra insurance pressure
Agents at the desk will push additional insurance (tyre cover, windscreen, gravel protection). These are often legitimate but overpriced. If you've bought good CDW through the broker, you may not need extras. Read what your policy already covers.
Undisclosed cross-border fee
Some companies add fees at collection that weren't shown online. If you declared Bosnia at booking and have written confirmation, you can push back. If they add unexpected charges, ask for the fee in writing before signing.
GPS / child seat upsells
Decline the GPS — use your phone with offline Google Maps downloaded before your trip. It's better anyway.

General travel tips

Money & payments
✓Use a fee-free travel card (Wise, Starling, Revolut) for all purchases — no foreign transaction fees in either country.
✓Withdraw BAM from ATMs in Mostar — better rate than exchanging cash. Use bank ATMs (Raiffeisen, UniCredit) not independent machines.
✗Avoid currency exchange booths in tourist areas — they often have poor rates or hidden commissions. Check the rate before handing over cash.
✗Don't exchange money at the airport — worst rates guaranteed.
iTipping: not compulsory but appreciated. Round up or leave 10% at sit-down restaurants. In Bosnia, tipping is less expected but always welcome.
Split — what to know
✓Don't drive into the old town — use the Sukoišan underground garage or Gripe garage nearby. The old town streets are narrow, pedestrianised, and chaotic for cars.
✓The Podrum (underground halls of Diocletian's Palace) are underrated — most tourists skip them. Go. They're cavernous, atmospheric, and give you the scale of the original palace.
✗Avoid restaurants right on the Riva promenade — they're tourist traps with mediocre food at inflated prices. Walk one or two streets back into the palace for proper konobas.
✗The Game of Thrones tour hustle: guides will approach you near the Golden Gate. Fine if you're interested, but negotiate price before you start.
iSplit has excellent nightlife if you want it — the old town bars stay lively until late. Or not — it's a pilgrimage trip.
Mostar — what to know
✓Cross to the east bank of the Neretva — most tourists stay on the west (Bosniak) side. The Serbian/Croatian west bank has quieter cafes and a different perspective on the bridge.
✓The bridge divers are real — young local men who dive from the 21-metre bridge, traditionally after training for months. They collect donations in a hat. It's worth waiting for.
✗The Kujundžiluk bazaar has a lot of mass-produced tourist tat (generic "Bosnia" magnets, fake copper). Look for actual artisan workshops — coppersmithing is genuine here. Watch a craftsman working before buying.
✗Don't photograph people without asking, especially in the old bazaar. A smile and gesture goes a long way and is usually met warmly.
iMostar is a Muslim-majority city. During Ramadan (not in May/June 2025) some restaurants may be closed in the day. Outside Ramadan, no restrictions for visitors.
Medjugorje — what to know
✓Bring a good rosary and a small notebook or journal — the pilgrimage prompts things worth writing down.
✓The village is extremely safe, even late at night. Pilgrims walk to Apparition Hill after dark without any concern.
✓English is spoken everywhere — the village has welcomed international pilgrims for 40+ years and is set up for it.
✗Ignore anyone outside the church claiming to sell "special" blessed items or offering to guide you to the visionaries for a fee. The real visionaries have no agents.
✗Some souvenir shops near the entrance to the village charge inflated prices. The shops closer to the church and run by local families are better value and more authentic.
iThe Catholic Church has not yet given an official ruling on the apparitions, though pastoral visits are approved. This is not something to worry about — pilgrims of all views come here and find it spiritually meaningful.
Driving — tips and hazards
✓Download offline Google Maps for Croatia AND Bosnia before you fly. Roaming data in Bosnia may not be covered by your UK plan.
✓The coastal road (D8) is beautiful but has sections with no barrier and steep drops to the sea. Drive carefully, especially on bends. Not dangerous if you're paying attention.
✓Croatian motorway (A1) tolls: keep €10–15 in coins or have a card handy. The toll booths are manned and straightforward.
✗Speed traps are common on Croatian motorways and in small towns. The locals know where they are — you don't. Stick to the posted limits.
✗Do not drink and drive — zero tolerance in both Croatia and Bosnia. Police checkpoints are common on holiday weekends.
✗Parking in Split near the Riva looks free but is often metered or residents-only. Use the garages and save the stress.
iThe border crossing from Croatia into Bosnia (entering Medjugorje) is simple — a passport check, perhaps 5 minutes. Have passport in hand. The return crossing is equally quick.
What to pack
✓Sturdy closed-toe shoes or light hiking shoes — Apparition Hill and Cross Mountain are sharp limestone rock. Trainers are borderline, sandals are a bad idea.
✓Small torch / phone torch for the pre-dawn Cross Mountain climb.
✓A light layer for evening Mass — churches can be cool and the dress code requires covered shoulders.
✓Sun cream and a hat — the hills are exposed and the sun is strong in May/June.
✓A water bottle — fill it from taps (safe) and carry it on any outdoor activity.
✓A rosary, a small journal, perhaps a prayer book. Lightweight spiritually, heavy in meaning.
✓European plug adapter (Type C, 2 round pins).
iPack light — you're living out of a car for 7 days. One medium holdall or backpack is enough. You'll thank yourself in Split's narrow parking garages.